The Sunny and Strategic World of Les Andelys

It was on our first stop away from Paris that I realized I didn’t remember enough about the history of France. On the Uniworld River Baroness with the Senior and the Youthful Adventurers, we awoke to sunny, pastoral town of Les Andelys, a throwback in time from the dazzles of Paris. Walking up to the ruins of Château Gaillard, our tour guide explained that this point belonged to Richard the Lionheart. She wasn’t pronouncing ‘Richard’ the French way (ree-shard). I couldn’t remember: Was Richard part of the 100 Years War? Could he have been English? Why was he referred to as a Lionheart?

Seeing the strategically placed fortress, we are reminded of how war, defense, protection were such a part of living in the Lionheart’s time. The chateau was built in 1197 and 1198. Richard, the king of England who only managed to spend six months in his native country after ascending to the throne, died a year later after a battle to take another castle in France. His brother, John Lackland, succeeded Richard but lost the castle to Philip Augustus in 1204 following a years-long siege.

It was an interesting turn in politics. Richard and Philip-August had been active in the Third Crusade after the Muslims won Jerusalem. The fierce warrior Richard, on his way back, was imprisoned in Dürnstein, Austria. After a ransom was paid, Richard returned to France, defeated Philip Augustus, and had the Chateau Gaillard built. Less than a decade would pass before the land would return to Philip Augustus again.

Fortresses, sieges, battles, crusades, religion, dungeons: It was a lot to take in on a brief walk on a bright summer morning.

—Lori Tripoli