A 1000 Islands Getaway

Standing on the platform of Frink Park & Pavilion on the first morning of a 1000 Islands getaway, a visitor can almost see the ghosts of summers past at this playground made popular during the Gilded Age. The first stop on this particular 1000 Islands itinerary is this former train station in Clayton right on the St. Lawrence Seaway.

President Ulysses S. Grant enjoyed recreational fishing in the area. George Boldt, the owner of the Waldorf-Astoria, retreated to the 1000 Islands during the summer months. The New York Times used to list the names of society women who would be here for the season. So many visitors, then, came by train to escape the heat and grime of summertime in the city. Eleven passenger trains arrived every day. Passengers would then board steamers to continue their journeys to specific islands.

Standing on the platform of this former train station, watching lake vessels head toward the Atlantic Ocean and kayakers make their way to some of those thousand islands, one can understand how this place came to be referred to as the “Garden of the Great Spirit” by the indigenous people who lived in the area.

More than 1800 islands actually pepper the seaway. The precise number depends on how you determine at what point a bit of earth protruding from the water is an island rather than a rock. Some say that to be deemed an “island” a land mass must remain above water level all year and support at least one tree. As the water level of the seaway rises, the count may change.

Making the Case for a 1000 Islands Getaway

Now, travelers are far more likely to take a road trip to this vacation destination in upstate New York. The journey, no matter how far it may be, is worthwhile for the shifting light alone. One needn’t be Monet in his garden or Renoir taking lunch with a boating party to appreciate the kaleidoscopic and constantly shifting color from sun, river, clouds, and mist. Standing on this one-time train platform, beholding sky and seaway, one begins to savor the concept of vacationing established by those long departed. Slow travel really can make for a superior getaway.

Indulge in what is here—water, stars, sky. Wine and cheese cruises and fishing expeditions can be arranged through Garnsey’s Classic Island Cruises. Captain Jeff Garnsey also can put on a traditional shore dinner, the kind that President Grant attended way back when. Be prepared for storytelling and some amazing combinations of locally sourced food prepared in 100-year-old cookware over an open flame.

Lodging for a New Generation: The 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel

Grand old hotels from centuries past are gone now, a surprising number lost to fire.  The 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel, which opened in 2014, provides a viable throwback to those long-gone resorts. Situated on the Saint Lawrence right next to the former train station now called Frink Park, the hotel’s grounds provide the perfect spot for sky-and-seaway watching. Order a glass of wine or a cocktail from the Patio Bar and watch the world glide by.

Experience a bit of Gilded Age grandeur with 21st-century comfort at the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel.

With 105 rooms (the vast majority of which offer water views) and an indoor pool and hot tub, the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel makes for a blissful getaway all on its own. A guest’s most stressful decision could be deciding whether to dine inside at the Seaway Grille Restaurant or outside on the Riverside Patio. The hotel gives a nod to the service-oriented resorts of yesteryear with its nightly turndown service.

Indeed, service is the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel’s hallmark. Prepare to be greeted cheerily whenever buzzing through the lobby. Check-in is seamless, staff members go the extra mile in accommodating any guest request, and a concierge can help guests curate their own ideal itinerary—and help bring it to fruition. Even better: there’s good wifi and an onsite fitness center, and guestrooms include strategically well-placed outlets for charging one’s various electronic gadgets.  

What’s Up with that 1000 Island Salad Dressing?

Always interested in the history of a place, I head toward the Antique Boat Museum, passing first by the now closed Thousand Islands Inn, which plays a role in the “who invented 1000 Island salad dressing?” mystery. The islands appeared long before the salad dressing concocted here came along. Some say an actress, May Irwin, who summered in the area in the late 1800s, tasted the dressing at the Thousand Islands Inn, which was then called the Herald House.

According to this story line, Irwin passed the recipe along to George Boldt, owner of the Waldorf-Astoria and also a frequenter of the 1000 Islands. Others say the actress—most known for participating in the first on-screen kiss—tasted the dressing after a day of fishing when it was served as part of a shore dinner. Others believe that Boldt’s chef invented the dressing while serving lunch aboard a boat because more conventional ingredients had not been packed.

The tale of 1000 Island salad dressing varies by the teller. The recipe—generally a mélange of mayo, ketchup, and relish—tends to shift as well. The similarity between 1000 Island salad dressing and Russian dressing (also trending toward a mix of mayonnaise, ketchup, and relish) perhaps should not be raised in polite conversation here.

But the mystery of 1000 Island dressing’s development is a good icebreaker should you talk to any local. Ask residents of the region which ingredients they mix into their version.

Antique Boat Museum: History and Boat Rides

Freshwater and recreational boats are the theme at the Antique Boat Museum, which also offers boat rides and special charters. Beautiful wooden boats from years past fill the museum. An early version of a personal watercraft amuses, as does a groovy canoe made from fiberglass. Visitors may find the most intriguing exhibits to be a houseboat without any power source at all. La Duchesse, built in 1903 for George Boldt, is a 106-feet long houseboat replete with a piano, fireplace, and soaking tubs. The houseboat floats, but to move, it needs a tow.

Continuing that watery motif, head to the Wood Boat Brewery afterward for some locally made refreshment.

Visit the Gilded Age at Boldt Castle

To get a glimpse of Gilded Age excess up close, I drive to Alexandria Bay and board a vessel headed to Heart Island courtesy of Uncle Sam Boat Tours. Hotelier George Boldt bought the island in 1895 and began building his dream house. The dream turned to heartbreak, though, when his wife died unexpectedly in 1904. Boldt issued a stop-work order and the castle remains unfinished to this day.

The property changed hands over the course of the last century and fell into disrepair, so much so that its upper floors still display some of the graffiti left here by trespassers over the years. The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority has been finishing and restoring the house, called Boldt Castle, since 1977. Boldt left detailed floorplans, and family members have provided some of the period furnishings.

Need an even bigger fix of Gilded Age lifestyle? Visit Singer Castle on Dark Island, which also is accessible via Uncle Sam Boat Tours. Built in 1905 for Frederick Bourne, a president of the Singer Sewing Machine Company, the residence remained in the family until the 1960s.

For Bashful Adventurers

• Indulge in some window (or actual) shopping in the charming Village of Clayton, which offers plenty of opportunity. Personal favorites include River Rat Cheese  (for all things cheese), Michael Ringer Galleries, and Porch & Paddle.
• The patio of the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel provides an ideal venue for whiling away an afternoon with a book, and possibly a glass of locally sourced wine. Read and watch the big and little boats glide by. Although the weather turns a bit frosty come wintertime, this is also a great destination for an offseason qetaway. There’s no shortage of things to do, from “punkin chunkin” in the fall to polar runs in the winter. Be certain to check the hotel’s calendar for details.
• The Clayton Opera House, a former vaudeville theater, offers musical and other performances year-round.
• Learn more about the history of the area at the Thousand Islands Museum in Clayton.

—Lori Tripoli

Full Disclosure: The author’s trip was sponsored by Hart Hotels Harbor Hotel Collection.

Where Is the 1000 Islands in New York?

 

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