Finding Romance and Looking for Ghosts at an Historic Inn
From an age long before the word ‘tagline’ existed comes the best tagline of all: “America’s Oldest Inn.” It just happens to be referring to the Beekman Arms Inn in Rhinebeck, N.Y.—and, yes, it seems George Washington was here. Indeed, business on the site pre-dates the existence of the United States. Who could resist a romantic getaway to a place where the floors creak with history?
Staying at the Beekman Arms Inn
Arriving on a Friday afternoon, we are given real keys—not those credit card-like slider things—to our room in the main inn (the imposing white-columned building that also houses the Beekman Arms tavern). Technically known as the Beekman Arms and Delamater Inn, this hotel actually offers guests accommodations in a number of buildings.
Climbing the stairs to room 26, we peruse old documents that take us back through time at the Beekman Arms. Of course, many of them are in a script that is illegible to us, yet we nevertheless try to understand them.
Our room is quaint, replete with windows dressed in curtains and blinds, and an old desk stocked with some complementary sherry.
We wash up and head downstairs for a cocktail and a bite before we are treated to ghost stories in the basement.
Our storyteller leads us to the basement at the appointed hour and charms us with spooky tales that we hear while seated before a fireplace lit with candles. The space is small, so not many listeners are in attendance at any one time. Learning a bit more about the inn’s history is definitely worth the price of admission to ghost stories in the basement.
Eating at the Beekman Arms Tavern
The ceilings in the taproom are low, and the floors creek as we take a seat at a table across from the bar. A gun rests on a rack above the fireplace. We almost feel the revolutionary fervor early patrons did. As I enjoy some wine and a cheese plate, I wonder whether this place was welcoming to women back in the day and, if so, what sort of women might have come here.
For Saturday dinner, we request a seat in the Beekman restaurant’s pewter room, replete with a painting of George Washington. We are fortunate to get this space as a large and ever expanding party (from 15 to 18 to, I think, 20) shares the room with us. The staff graciously accommodates the crowd and still manages to provide us with personalized service on a very busy Saturday night.
The Brawny Sherpa opts for stuffed clams and prime rib, while I go for lump crab and horseradish twice-baked potatoes and sautéed spinach. Vegetarian options on this menu are limited—there is something akin to gnocchi, but not much else as far as entrees go.
We wash it all down with prosecco and, later, with coffee during our dessert (key lime pie for me, some brownie concoction for him).
Breakfast for guests of the inn is taken in the greenhouse room. It’s a self-serve continental breakfast (offered in the pewter room) that, in the minds of at least one of us, could have used more loving care. No, I do not want instant oatmeal or boxed cereal when I am staying at America’s oldest inn. Bagels and pastry and other assorted items are offered, but I stay at the Staybridge Suites in Corning, N.Y. just days later, and it offers a superior ‘free’ breakfast to guests each morning (biscuits and scrambled eggs one day, omelettes on others).
Elsewhere in Rhinebeck, NY
On a walk about town, we discover an historic post office right next door that was dedicated by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1939. Panels inside depict local history.
From there, we do a bit of antiquing at the conveniently located Antique Market, which is located just behind the Beekman Arms Inn. On our walkabout, we admire old houses in town and indulge in a healthy dose of windowshopping.
The Hudson Valley Wine & Food Fest happens to be taking place at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds on the weekend we are in Rhinebeck, so we head there to sample some New York wines and beers.
Afterward, we stop for a snack at another old restaurant, Foster’s Coach House Tavern, just across the street from the Beekman Arms. Fosters has been around since 1890. A casual place, it’s a good one to visit for a bite. Another favorite restaurant in Rhinebeck we do not get to visit on this trip is Terrapin, situated in an old church. This town just reeks of history and romance—all in a good way.
The Beekman and Rhinebeck for Bashful Adventurers
- Bashful adventurers will appreciate the comfy sofas and sitting areas on the first floor of the Beekman Arms Inn.
- The bar at the tavern is quite long and seems a good place to venture solo for a drink. For those disinclined to quaff at the bar alone, tables abound.
- The rooms at the Beekman Arms themselves seem just made for reading. I could take a vacation here and just languish inside with a book.
- Around town, plenty of spas, quaint shops, and eating options can keep any solo adventurer amused.
Beekman Arms & Delamater Inn, 6387 Mill Street, Rhinebeck, N.Y. 12572
—Lori Tripoli