
Photo credit: M. Ciavardini
Expecting a day of tequila sunrises and snorkeling, the Brawny Sherpa and I set off by catamaran from Cancun to Isla Mujeres. The water was too rough for playing in, though, so, once on the island, we rented a golf cart for about $20 and tootled toward the Mayan ruins at the tip of it instead.

Photo credit: M. Ciavardini
If the Maya could see what would become of this place—visits from slave seekers and pirates—would they have built a temple that could serve as a lighthouse? We couldn’t help but think that “discovery” by Europeans hardly brought advancement to this beautiful place.

Photo credit: M. Ciavardini
From the ruins, we drove past pricey real estate, garbage heaps, and a shantytown before making our way back to the northwestern tip of the island, by some tourist shops where we didn’t buy tee shirts, to the very colorful graveyard.

Photo credit: M. Ciavardini
Every time I visit Isla Mujeres, I wonder, Would I go back? Then I go back. I try to make sense of this place where spirits, military, Maya, shopkeepers, and vacationers all mingle in such a relatively small space.
—Lori Tripoli

Photo credit: M. Ciavardini