Continuing my attempts to time travel, I stopped by Truck in Bedford Village, N.Y. on a hot, humid, too-bright-to-be-experienced-outside Sunday afternoon. Honestly, I wasn’t there for the healthful food—and there is plenty of that—but for the Mexican Cokes, margaritas, and air-conditioning. That there were locally grown veggies in my enchilada made it all the better.
Our server explained that Truck, located at what once was Bistro 22, was named, in part, because of the location’s history. Back before there was a 684—not that I personally remember that time—the most viable way to head north from the city for a country drive was via good old Route 22. Truckers also used the road to transport fruits and vegetables from the farms in the area. It did feel like I was walking into the past when I passed across Truck’s threshold. Confections rested on cake plates under toppers at the cash register. Tables were devoid of cloths. Coffee came in cups, not mugs.
I don’t remember Bedford when trucks full of vegetables groaned toward the city along Route 22, but I am sure I would have liked it. Truck was quiet and relaxed on the day I was there, not crowded and noisy as I understand it to be on weekend nights. I’ll relish another visit during off hours. The food could have been spicier, but the atmosphere was just right.
Note from the Brawny Sherpa: Enjoyed Truck, but for guacamole and osso bucco that’s off the hook, go to Fiesta Mexicana in Brewster or to its upscale sibling, Las Mañanitas. Both are also located on Route 22.