Category: Venice

‘We Represent the Fritter-Makers’ Guild’

Sweets in Venice. Photo credit: M. Ciavardini

A Painting in Venice Gives Chief Pancake Flippers Some Credibility What makes me notice the sign of the fritter-makers guild is not the unionization of pastry makers centuries ago but the food itself. Overwhelmed by so much religious art on…

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Upstairs at San Marco

How do you get upstairs at the San Marco Basilica in Venice? And is the venture worthwhile? Photo credit: M. Ciavardini

Glimpse the World as a Venetian As a tourist checking off a list of must-sees in Venice, one might be tempted to just move with the masses through the main floor of the San Marco Basilica. The wait can be…

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Romance, Good Food, and History at Ristorante da Raffaele

Tempted by the dining room at Ristorante da Raffaele. Photo credit: M. Ciavardini

Eat Like a Local in Venice In a town full of tourists, service at a restaurant can sometimes be a bit aloof, a tad uncaring. After all, everyone knows that you are unlikely to be back after this current meal…

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Should You Take the Kids to Murano?

Windows beckon in Murano, but should travelers with children enter glass shops? Photo credit: M. Ciavardini

Do Youthful Adventurers and Glass Really Mix? The first time I make my way to Murano, the Youthful Adventurer, around 13 at the time, marvels at our vaporetto ride across the Venetian Lagoon and then fidgets as we visit glass…

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Back at the Palazzo

The Westin Hotel Europa & Regina in Venice Photo credit: M. Ciavardini

Choosing a Palace in Venice Surely, no one visits Venice for the modern conveniences. It’s that carless, truckless past and present that we lust for, the soothing water, the mysterious alleys, the ability to walk wherever we need to go,…

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Meeting Hemingway at Harry’s Bar

Can the literary romance of Harry's Bar possibly live up to its reality? Photo credit: L. Tripoli

A Little Literary Tourism in Venice Scooting past a vaporetto stop in Venice on my way back to my hotel, which was at some point in history a palazzo, I stumble across a landmark of more recent, and literary, fame:…

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Venice in Winter

Will Venice still deliver magic when the weather is cold and gray? Photo credit: Michael Ciavardini

Will Romance Be on Ice in February? What I think of when I think of visiting Venice in winter is rats and rain and floods and chills. What I get when I visit Venice in winter is balmy days, a…

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Katharine Hepburn’s Summertime Romance

Turned on to an oldie by Alice Steinbach’s Without Reservations: The Travels of an Independent Woman (Random House, 2000), I quickly add the Katharine Hepburn film Summertime (1955) to my Netflix queue. Lured by the prospect of Venice from an…

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Venetian Calm and Venetian Crowds

“Venice has been painted and described many thousands of times” wrote Henry James in Italian Hours, published in 1909 (and which I downloaded for free on my Kindle). A century later, my visit there, as a single mom with her…

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Venice: What I Learned from My Gondola Ride

I had been ambivalent about Venice. On my first trip to Italy, a little present from my great-grandmother after I’d finished graduate school, a friend and I had skipped it entirely. We were driving through Italy at our whim, staying…

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