The Basilica di San Marco Is the Crown Jewel of Venice—and Everyone Knows It
Saint Mark’s Basilica. Photo credit: M. Ciavardini.
It is possible to travel to Venice without visiting Saint Mark’s Basilica—those crowds! the wait!—but why would you want to skip it (except for those crowds! the wait!)? After all, how many times in your lifetime will you actually be in Venice? Go ahead and visit the church that has, after all, been around for a thousand years. Savor its wild history, from a grave robbing of sorts in Egypt that brought Saint Mark’s body, or at least parts of it, back to Venice, to a catastrophic fire that triggered the construction of a bigger, better tribute to Saint Mark, to the dark holy hush of the interior to its terrace with unforgettable views. Here are some tips for visiting Saint Mark’s Basilica.
Arrive early–ideally, off season
My last visit was on a Saturday in February, and early in the morning, the line was nonexistent! Piazza San Marco itself was also blissfully quiet at that hour, too. The early bird gets a good experience.
Wear boots or at least sea-worthy shoes
No matter the season, water has greeted me at the entrance on my visit to San Marco. It can be hard to avoid, so footwear you don’t mind sloshing around in a bit would be a wise selection.
Use your time in line well
Read up on the basilica if you do have to wait in line, especially if your knowledge of Saint Mark doesn’t proceed much beyond the ability to name the four gospels of the New Testament (Matthew, Mark, Luke, John). The basilica itself does not seem necessarily what one would expect from a Catholic church in Italy. The so-called ‘Oriental’ influence is very much evident; to some of us, it would not be a stretch to think we are in Turkey.
Learn that Mark founded the church in Alexandria, Egypt; was martyred by a hanging of sorts there, that at some point around 868 A.D. his body was transferred (via theft) to Venice and that is about the time the first church for him was built in Venice. A little over a century later, a fire in the year 976 virtually destroyed the church. Although the church was restored, around the year 1063, work commenced on the big basilica version that visitors see today.
Cats rule: Winged lions abound in Venice. Photo credit: M. Ciavardini.
Saint Mark is symbolized by a winged lion—look for these spirit animals everywhere in Venice. Saint Mark’s feast day is April 25, and he is the patron saint of Venice and of barristers.
Make time for the reliquary
Thinking this will be oh-so-Catholic? It’s more like oh-so-macabre and might just get you wondering about that whole body/soul distinction as you glimpse at a saint’s body parts, for here in the basilica, kept in a container, is a hand believed to be that of Saint Mark.
Relics in Saint Mark’s Basilica. Photo credit: M. Ciavardini.
Absorb the atmosphere
The basilica itself is quite dark, which makes its gold altar that much brighter and amazing. Imagine yourself visiting this place in the year 1100 or so, in the darkness, with the water.
Appreciate the mosaics
Mosaics were the graphic novels of their day, and there are plenty to view here. See if you can locate any characters depicted in a racially accurate way. See if you can understand the story that is actually being depicted. Do you recognize the characters and their roles? What is transpiring? If the mosaics contain writing, likely in Latin, what message is conveyed?
Make time to go up and out on the roof
The originals of the horses outside San Marco are upstairs inside, and the views of Venice from the upstairs roof/balcony are unforgettable. The stairs are small and steep. Take your time!
The four horses at upstairs at Saint Mark’s Basilica. Photo credit: M. Ciavardini.
—Lori Tripoli
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Wow, a hand that they say is St. Mark’s in a glass container for viewing?? Yes, I’d call that macabre! Strange to say the least. I also was surprised to hear about the Oriental influences. I haven’t been to Venice but will have to take in this sight if I ever go!
What was amazing to me was how small the hand is–it is like the hand of a child. Evaporation? Who knows. Anyway, it’s worth a peek if you happen to be at Saint Mark’s Basilica. I hope you go–I imagine you would like all the water! –Lori
Thanks for this terrific post. Most of what I’ve seen and read about Venice always focuses on the gondolas and waterways. It was interesting reading about St. Mark’s Basilica.